Good day of surf. Surfed from 7 to 11 with just friends. Great conditions and good surf. A little inconsistent but definitely "Worth the waits". Surfed my Liddle hull which was a perfect choice. It would cruise through the flat sections and line up great in the shore break. It was like two waves in one. Outside would have some nice shoulders and the the shore break would offer some nice hollow ones. I love shore break.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Worth the waits
Good day of surf. Surfed from 7 to 11 with just friends. Great conditions and good surf. A little inconsistent but definitely "Worth the waits". Surfed my Liddle hull which was a perfect choice. It would cruise through the flat sections and line up great in the shore break. It was like two waves in one. Outside would have some nice shoulders and the the shore break would offer some nice hollow ones. I love shore break.
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nice man ive been enjoying checking your blog the last month or so. started surfing half a year ago and your stuff is inspiring, always makes me wanna go out and not to mention regret those days I couldn't the days you got out! two waves in one onto the shore breaks are great.
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