Monday, April 30, 2007

And The Wind Was Calm


Today the south wind decided to back down while the waves were really fun. I was able to get a early am session and a mid day. Board chioce today was 9'-0 single fin log. This is one of my favorite all time boards. Works well in all conditions.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Green Lantern vrs Bionic Man

THE GREEN LANTERN, HIS REAL IDENTIDY IS UNKNOWN.
MATT ALBERS, AKA THE BIONIC MAN




HALF THE VALLEY WAS OUT EARLY TO SEE THIS SURF OFF.





















JIM COONS







AND SINCE I NEVER EVEN SAW THE GREEN LANTERN CATCH A WAVE THE UNOFFICIAL WINNER IS THE BIONIC MAN.








Saturday, April 28, 2007

Board Spotlight


Double stringer pin tail

Unique bottom and deck curves


straight lines from the parabolic nose.



My son Chile checks out my 9'-4 Boss log shaped by Bob O. Bob's outlines are very unique. with the straight lines and parabolic nose. The rocker is completly different as well with a a nose and tail kick. This board has a double stringer and a really good weight. This was my board choice for the early session but the south wind did not help things.




Friday, April 27, 2007

Current Rotation


Well I missed getting out in the surf today just to much work. Its real hard to keep focused when the sun is out and its glassy with a little swell in the water. Oh well I just got home and started picking out the ones for tomorrow from what I call my current rotation. Different boards choices makes me happy even if I did miss it today. I hope you all had fun.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

High Math

Four + One = Fun , Jeff wroe quiver for the day.
Today started out with a bad eddy but by 10:00 turned ou to be preety fun. Board of choice was 6'-10" Andrini Hull.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Combo plate breakfast




Wave were fun today. Nice combo swell still running. Board of choce today was 6'-2" 5 fin.


Monday, April 23, 2007

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Earth Day 2007


Al hanging heels




Matt Albers and Gary Marshall waiting for thier turn.



Troy 5 over




Troy cross step






Stefon J. on a Dano 7'2" ready for take off.





S.J. crouching tiger style.








Dano backside 5 over.







Today a small crew was out enjoying the surf on Earth day 2007. The surf was fun for logging and the winds were calm.









Saturday, April 21, 2007

Board spotlight




This is an 8'-6" Bruce Jones gun of mine I have used in Kauai 2 years back. I rode it at big Hanalei and Dump Trucks which is the outside break at tunnels. I also had good success at a medium size day at Todos. Its a good board but its a little to much rail for big hollow beach breaks. It has a double stringer and real good weight. I think the next one I order will be a single fin and a little less rail for different conditions. Bruce has some great gun templates from the Brewer era. Surf On


Friday, April 20, 2007

Sand swell

I found this cool sand texture created by the high winds. I was checking out the surf at a spot that is not very popular, (no foot prints) and found the beach had this cool pattern.

Thursday, April 19, 2007

DRIVE







Wind and more wind you have to take what mother nature gives you. Photos above are of a long time friend Stefon Jerimias who is a movie creator and producer, Known for such movies and TV shows as the skateboard flick Drive on Fuel TV. He was riding a board shaped by a guy he met at San O . It was the second board the guy had ever shaped. Next time you see Stefon in the water ask him about the long version of the story. Pretty Cool