Funny how swells bring people together. Old friend just show up as if they never left. Hoping to catch that fickle wave that only breaks when the the good swells come. As soon as the swell is gone so is that friend or at least until the next swell arrives. I ran into Kelly at a reef break I grew up at where he was one of the elders we used to stay clear of. He is a good surfer nice guy and a definition of a true surfer. I guess you could say he was "Born to surf". He has a very interesting past one that was chronicled in Surfers Journal story on the Philippines. See you next big swell Kelly.
Friday, December 7, 2007
Born to surf
Funny how swells bring people together. Old friend just show up as if they never left. Hoping to catch that fickle wave that only breaks when the the good swells come. As soon as the swell is gone so is that friend or at least until the next swell arrives. I ran into Kelly at a reef break I grew up at where he was one of the elders we used to stay clear of. He is a good surfer nice guy and a definition of a true surfer. I guess you could say he was "Born to surf". He has a very interesting past one that was chronicled in Surfers Journal story on the Philippines. See you next big swell Kelly.
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