Scored some nice shaped waves thanks to "A little help from my friend" who gave me yesterdays report. I have been getting alot of beach break surf with marginal shape. So today was a nice change.
Great conditions and perfect swell direction.
Lots of people on it but can you blame them. I started out slow at dark and ended with a bang scoring a flurry of sets. Sometimes you just end up in the right spot even with the crowds.
Sweet southwest swell
Plenty of hulls out in the water today.
Even at high tide the waves were really good. I hated to have to leave.
Started at dark. Rode my 7'9" Owl Hull which ended up to be a perfect choice. I started out a little funky due to riding my bonzers for the last two weeks. The transition somtimes is hard. But by the end of the session it was working like magic.
2 comments:
The first shot in the sequence is, for me what fall in California is all about. Thanks
i think i see myself looking sad while being burned by the girl noserider?
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