Nice swell direction today. Had to grovel a little but rode my 7'-2"hull. Ended up taking off deep and making a few. A good trick on the hull is to not stand up to quick and pick up some Choo Choo speed.
Interesting psych experiment at the bu with the peaking out of overpopulation and the ratio of waves to people. Of course their are confrontations but not like any other spot. The rule book gets semi rewritten and it seems people take it with a grain of salt. Partly good exept for then those that take advantage of that good nature and just drop on anybody anywhere! happened to me alot today. You really got to mentally prepare yourself to surf that place. Eventually with surfing this kinda thing could happen alot of places. Dread.
Nice swell direction today. Had to grovel a little but rode my 7'-2"hull. Ended up taking off deep and making a few. A good trick on the hull is to not stand up to quick and pick up some Choo Choo speed.
1 comment:
Interesting psych experiment at the bu with the peaking out of overpopulation and the ratio of waves to people.
Of course their are confrontations but not like any other spot.
The rule book gets semi rewritten and it seems people take it with a grain of salt. Partly good exept for then those that take advantage of that good nature and just drop on anybody anywhere! happened to me alot today.
You really got to mentally prepare yourself to surf that place.
Eventually with surfing this kinda thing could happen alot of places.
Dread.
Post a Comment