Recess

Started work early in the AM in Downtown LA. By 10:00am I was ready for a break. I was counting on the tide push to help like the last few days. And indeed it did. Not great but after hours on the road a little "recess" did not hurt.

Mark Jerimias one of the 2 creators of the new movie "One California Day" paddled out to join the fun. He is going to premier his new flick this weekend at the Malibu Pier. Go check it out. It is also the weekend of the coalition contest at Malibu.

Mark was riding a Terry Martin fish which seems to got away on this one. Terry Martin is spotlighted in his new movie with Tyler Pickle Warren. Good Stuff

Small wind swell but enough to have fun.

Little peaks and little crowd not a bad combo.

I Was able to try my new board today. Showcased by Brittney. I nicknamed the board Lipstick which Britney liked. She even wore a top to match.

This board worked unreal. I think a good training for the kids of today would be to ride a sigle fin like this. You have to generate your own speed by position in a wave. But you also find yourself were you want to be in the pocket. I think alot of times waves are out run. Anyways I could not be more stoked on this board, It worked great.

New Sled Stoke

I just received my two new boards. This board is a 7'-6" single fin gun. Deck is sky blue with a resin tint pin lin.

Bottom is a root beer color which wrap around the rails .

Tail is a star tail . The outline of this board turned out perfect.

Second board is a 6'-4" wing swallow. Color of lipstick

This board is similar to a favorite board I owned in the early 80's . It worked really good in the hollow beach breaks. I have always loved single fins.

Both boards were shaped by Longtime surfer/shaper M Junod out of Santa Cruz. I was really stoked a couple weeks ago when I spoke with him on the phone that he was coming into town for a class reunion and the Malibu contest. Oh and he would manage to complete the boards and drive them down. Well he showed up Monday as promised and I am completely stoked. There are not many shapers that worked under Brewer in the 70's but M Junod did. He is looking to exspand his business more into the area, so if you are interested let me know. All I need is my yearly Island trip to arrive. Thanks M. J. you did a great job.

Tuesday Tip Time

Not much in the mood for words just went to the movies with my kids and saw Transformers. Fun logging today at Blackies.

Local Lee

If you ever surf 56th street Newport you will definitly run into Lee. Always sitting off the rocks and getting his share. Lee has mellowed over the years and is a pleasure to surf with. He rides boards short, mid length and long shaped by local shaper Dan Taylor. Lee loves the tube.

Today I went for a lunch surf and scored some fun ones with Lee.

The tide push helped the wind swell and other small combos. Lee getting a shoulder high one off the rocks .

I snapped this one driving down PCH after work.

Sunday Road Trip

Took a road trip down south with my family and friends. My daughter Jacquelyn having fun in the warm water.

Hey dad look I am a goofy foot.My 6 year old son Daniel. The true definition of stoke.

I am still a goofy foot. Which being from Newport is a good thing.

All four of my groms having fun.

Hooked up with my friends. Jeff Wroe performingv Sunday prayer.

Matt with his 11-0 board.

Matt and wife Kim down to enjoy a great day.

Pre B-day party surf

Back on Board

Kaiser One of the blog " Daily Bread " getting some little wind swell at the pier

The conditions were good, the water was cooler but I was back on board after 2 days of no surf.

This kid was having fun doing pop shovits on a skim board

Rode my 9-0 old faithfull longboard.

Alternate source of fun

My neighbor and friend Billy the Kid Spurgeon filling the flat spells with some alternate fun. Bill is 63 years old and rips at surfing , windsurfing, etc.

18 days in a row

Have not missed a day of surf in the last 18 untill today. No surf and early NW winds. Kind of strange in that the south wind has had such a stong hold. The winds did clear out the low marine layer. 26 miles + visability.

If look close that was the biggest set I saw which was out of the south.

Early NW winds

A look at the wave field without waves.