Going' Going' Gone

This photo tells the story. The last of the swell is now gone.

This guy with the Catains hat getting a set wave .

A nice quiet day at the beach

Rode my 9'-6" log Hap Jacobs. Managed a few long noes rides on the 1 footers. Pray for surf

Crystal Clear

1:00pm session, sun came out, no black ball, and super warm clear water. Sure it was windy but just the hour before I was sitting at a desk working.

The south from the weekend was still present. A little smaller and more inconsistant, but it was still there.

The shape was walled. you just had to look for the fun corners.

I rode my 5'-8" Bumble Bee. Real fun to skate around the sections.

One California Day

Last night I attended the premier of a new surf film "One Califoria Day" The Premier was held at El Ssegundo High School.

Before the movie. Its was sold out. The place held 8oo people.

I got there a little early so I stopped at this Mexican place . This was the Taqullia Bar over 50 different kinds to try.

Sunday the wind was on it from sun up. Still managed to have fun . Surfed the mid streets. Some of the inside sections were real fun.

The following photos are of Dano test riding his new hull design. The board I think is 7'-8".

I have been riding hulls for about 12 years now and I think its cool there are some people giving them a try.

I surfed my 6'-0 pavel quad for most of the session. but at the end I switched to my new 5'-9" M Junod quad. Low entry rocker make this board really good. M Junod shapes out of Santa Cruz. He currently is shaping me a 7'-6" single fin gun.

Shacks

It only keeps getting better. Today I headed down about 5:30am . The tide was low and getting lower. The south had picked up with close intervals. This was the first set I saw.

Remember to click to enlarge to enjoy the photos

Look at the shawdow this wave cast.

This guy was riding a longboard and giving it a college try.

Look close you will see the tip of this guys board . There were more lefts but the rights were there and very hollow.

I put my NPJ 7'-0 widow maker in the car just in case. I was glad I did. Last time I rode it was the big South in April

Widow maker setup. Great for hollow conditions .

The Lows And The Highs

Why yes today I started at one of my favorite waves. Yes its popular and well known but you still get sessions that are uncrowded and good. A new NW ground swell and wind swell with a mix of fading and building south swells made today at the beach breaks real good. In the AM the tide was low and it made for some ggod barrels. Due to the mix in swells the lefts and rights were both good.

At high tide I took a lunch break and surfed a local reef break. With the high tide a focus on the new south was evident. The winds were variable and not to bad.

Reef pleasure

Low tide fun

Left pipes

right pipes

left again

Quite a roll of waves , I have not counted but I feel good. Surf On JDUB

Nice Rig

Today had a great allignment. Sets to the insiders were all fun. AM low to incoming high.

When I arrived I noticed this rig. It was pretty much all set up.

Then I met the owner of the nice rig. His name is Lacy and he is a really cool guy,

Ten reasons to be happy.