Smoke filled the air.

The Am today still had the winds blowing but " Smoke filled the air" and the northwest swell was no match to the off shores. Still plenty of south though to provide another day of fun.

Rode the 7'9" hull . Super fun for the conditions.

43rd Bday

Today is my 43rd Bday. My friends surprised me after our long session with a Bday cake. Thank You that was a cool surprise.

And the surf.

The crew getting sandblasted afetr a long session.

Rode the 7'2" NPj.

Ant Hill

Checke out a few spots in the AM all of them not working. Ended up at Blackies which had some fun wind swell peaks early. Te conditions did not last long. Size dropped and wind picked up.

Got out there and it was shoulder to shoulder crowds like ants on a "Ant Hill". Oh well.Sun

Then a weird frony blew through. and then sun again

Dave on the phone hoping somewhere is better.

Went out for a quick session. Rode my 5'8" bumble bee. Got a few fun backhanders.

Mellow Mood

Small clean conditions today. I did not drive around chasing the hype, I was just in a "Mellow Mood". Maybe from the hours on the road yesterday I dont know. Got some fun ones on my log and my Andreini 6'10"

Mikey Pells on some nice tip time.

Cody S on danos fish.

Mahaia is always a pleasure to surf with.

Dano

Cody S

Dano in cruise mode.

Road Trip

Took a little trip to point land to run the new Liddle in some lined up ones. Showed up and it was wind swell a little mixed up and not best for the points. I took at the log at first and got some good ones, Them as the day went on the wind swell was cleaning up and the new steep angled NW was starting to show, The sun was out and the wind calm. Took the Liddle out at this time and got some real good runs.

Even with the wind swell mixing in there were some fun walls. It actually made for lots of takeoff points and lots of waves for all.

Hope you all had good sessions as well.

Thick Air

It was not rain just "Thick air"

Wind swell only. Some fun ones but not great.

Surface conditions for the AM were smooth but the wind swell was a little mixed up.

A very light rainbow for just a minute.

Rode my 6'-10 Andreini.

Vintage Owl

9'7" l, 221'2"w, 171/2"n, 141'2t.

Today after my Am session at Blackies a board was set up against the palm trees on the beach with a for sale sign. From a distance it looked beat up. As I approached it I noticed it was an "Vintage Owl". Before I could get to my cell phone to call the phone # on the sign , The owner walked up and said no need to get your phone its mine. I have been looking for a vintage board for awhile but the never found the right opportunity. I have always been told it just has to fall in your lap. The ironic thing is what are the odds that the vintage board would be an Owl, which is one I have personel interest in. I have been a long time Marc Andreini fan and that this board is from that shaping tree which Marc is from. In fact Marc still shapes White Owl replicas to this day. Anyways I went to my car and paid the nice guy on the beach and away I went with a new old board. A little restoration is in order but its structural properties are all in tact.