Sand swell

I found this cool sand texture created by the high winds. I was checking out the surf at a spot that is not very popular, (no foot prints) and found the beach had this cool pattern.

DRIVE

Wind and more wind you have to take what mother nature gives you. Photos above are of a long time friend Stefon Jerimias who is a movie creator and producer, Known for such movies and TV shows as the skateboard flick Drive on Fuel TV. He was riding a board shaped by a guy he met at San O . It was the second board the guy had ever shaped. Next time you see Stefon in the water ask him about the long version of the story. Pretty Cool

Mood gage

Small Olas Today

Today waves were small but fun. I had to venture away from my normal haunts due to the south winds but ended up with some fun glassy loggers. Somtimes you find spots were you normally dont surf and you hear locals say how good it was the day before. Thats ok to me because I am only there for the present. Today was one of those days, I am sure yesterday was better than today but if I was not there to compare who cares. Surf On.

One mans trash is anothers treasure

These photos are of a simple art piece made of airbrushed plexi glass made by Shaper / Artist Bill Stewart in 1979.

I actually received this from my uncle back in the early 80's. My uncle found this piece in a garage sale and paid $5.00 for it. I have managed to keep it all these years and now plan to put a new frame on it. I think it is pretty cool.

RIDE THE LIGHT

My last post was a close up of a surfboard logo "OWL" . This post I show you what that represents for me and my quiver. All boards above are shapeed by Marc Andrini over the past 12 years.

Yellow is 8'-6" and was my first. This is one of my favorite boards of all times. Best session was Rincon a few years back. I don't ride it much any more in that the deck is pretty delaminated. It keeps a nice home on my family room ceiling.

White is a 7'-2". This is a great board. It rides more like a Liddle hull but whe get your feet on it for a few sessions it is a unreal ride. Best session was Lowers last year.

Merlot is 6'-10". This is my most recent, I got this board in 1999. In that this board is shorter it ride much different than the rest. I love this board in beach breaks as well as points. Most memoriable session was at Malibu ist point and Magnolia St. HB.

Green is 7'-9". This board rides longer when it needs to and shoter when it has to. I surfed a 1 foot day at SanO on it and people thought it was 9'-0". Most memorable session was at 56th street Newport Beach about 6 years ago. This is also my current St Patty day board.

If you ever get a chance to ride or even own a Andrini Hull I would reccomend it. And remember SURF ON>

SEE THE LIGHT

Change of pace

After a couple weeks of swell and some very anti soul media hype I decided to change it up and go to the races with my kids. I am not a race fan but I have to say it was fun for a few hours.

Race on

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This swell will be marked in history as such great swells of the past. Corona Del Mar in normally in the shadows of its neighbor city Newport Beach. But when Swells like this arrive it stands alone.

Surf on.

Jdub

MERLOT SINGLE FIN HULL 1999 VINTAGE

This is one of my favorite boards. 6'-10"Marc Andrini hulll.