Wednesday, April 11, 2007

OUTERBANKS












Today the beach breaks were out of control. I saw a couple sets hit sand bars that have not broken in years. It will be interesting to see the shape of the sand bars after this swell. Surfing is ever changing.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

OJ DON'T SURF?

lOCAL NEWS AT BIG C MEDIA HYPE
BAY OF PLENTY TODAY

BORROWED FROM MY FRIENDS BLOG THE DAILY BREAD. jUST WANTED TO POST A PHOTO TO REMEMBER RJ SESSION. THANKS FOR THE PHOTO. CHECK OUT THE BLOG (DAILY BREAD). I HAD A GREAT TIME AT RJ'S TODAY BUT JC HAMMER STOLE THE SHOW WITH HIS 10'-4' GUN. HE LATER SNAPPED THIS BOARD ON HIS SECOND SESSION.



SORRY FOR THE CLOSE UP. THIS WAS THE RESULT OF MY LAST BACKSIDE ONE AT RJ'S ,OUCH. THERE WAS GOOD SIZE AND POWER WITH THIS SWELL.



BIG C , FOAMER COUNTRY




LONG TIME CDM COVES LOCAL MIKE ALLARD STILL SHOWING THE GROMS HOW TO RIDE FOAMERS. I THINK MIKE GRADUATED FROM CDM HIGH IN 1975 OR 76.












INSIDE JETTY SECTION WAS FUN ALL DAY PROTECTED BY THE AFTERNOON WINDS.






When the stars allign
















Monday, April 9, 2007

The Canyon





Just got in from a trip for the Easter holiday with the family. If you want a good recommendation stay at El Capitan Canyon in Goleta. I wave photo above is the day before the swell. It was not big but it was big enough for El cap to break. Stay tuned tomorrow for more photos in my next post.
Surf On

Friday, April 6, 2007

SPRING BREAK

My groms are happy school is out for spring break . Can you say surf trip.. Happy Easter

Thursday, April 5, 2007

ANOTHER TUNNEL, HAPPY PLACE





TODAY WAS ONE OF THOSE DAYS. NO ONE OUT EXCEPT ME, OVERHEAD WAVES AND WAY TO MUCH FUN. I WAS BEGGING FOR SOMEONE TO TO COME DOWN TO ENJOY THE FUN WITH ME. I RODE MY 7'-0 NPJ WIDOW MAKER SETUP. TRULY A HAPPY PLACE.

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

OTHER SIDE OF THE TUNNEL WAS PURE JOY





Today was a good day of surf. rode my 5'-8" Bumble Bee bonzer and my 9'-4 " Creme log .

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

California Plate

Gary Marshall of Newport and Blackies club surf van with personalized plates.

Monday, April 2, 2007

Island Style

This is common in the Islands for board storage. I keep some of my boards here that are out of my current rotation.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

CROWDS OR CRUISE




JEFF WROE ON HIS NEW 9'-4" DANO











DANO ON HIS 9'-8" LOG






DANO'S PERSONEL FIN























ERIC FRITZ ON MY 7'-2" ANDRINI HULL






















9'-4" CREME LOG









7'-2" ANDRINI HULL











9'-4" DANO LOG



TODAY WE DECIDED TO GO DOWN THE STREETS TO AVOID THE CROWDS. THE UPPER STREETS HAD ALOT MORE OF THE NEW SOUTH BUT EVERYONE WAS ON IT. SO WE DECIDED TO CRUISE. SURF ON