Sunday, September 30, 2007

Good day sunshine

"Good day sunshine" I could tell at the start of the day it was going to be fun.
Surf was not big but super clean and grat for logging.

Spencer AKA Shreck in his flashdance attire.


Nice long rights and lefts

Dano on a backhander


Jeff Wroe super stoked with the conditions


Say Cheese Dick

Jimbo Coons



Rode a 9'-0 1/2 DT today. first day on this board. Its a keeper.



video

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Sunrise Session

"Sweet Sunrise Session" today at Malibu
Swell droped a bit and so did the crowds.

Still plenty of Southern Hemi in the water.


Inside section was real good today.



1972 Liddle Hull


Just liked this shot.

I think everyone was surfed out. Plenty of waves to go around.


Swapped boards for a few waves with Alex Knost. This board was made for him. The boards core is computer cut cardboard and glassed over.


Rode my 6'10" hull today the board I call Merlot.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

A little summer left

Surfed San O in the AM. The local beach breaks were still a little closed out. So I opted for a mellow session. The conditions were great. There was still "A little summer left".


Southern hemi still in the water. Tide was high and the point was fun.

Winds were nice. Glassy and a little offshore from time to time for most of the AM.

David N. going left.



Danger Bob on a set.

All in all a classic summer type morning.

Rode my 7'-9" hull again today. Worked really good on the inside high tide point waves. The sets were a little mussy so I let the loggers burn each other on them.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

A little help from my friends.

Scored some nice shaped waves thanks to "A little help from my friend" who gave me yesterdays report. I have been getting alot of beach break surf with marginal shape. So today was a nice change.
Great conditions and perfect swell direction.

Lots of people on it but can you blame them. I started out slow at dark and ended with a bang scoring a flurry of sets. Sometimes you just end up in the right spot even with the crowds.


Sweet southwest swell



Plenty of hulls out in the water today.




Even at high tide the waves were really good. I hated to have to leave.

Started at dark. Rode my 7'9" Owl Hull which ended up to be a perfect choice. I started out a little funky due to riding my bonzers for the last two weeks. The transition somtimes is hard. But by the end of the session it was working like magic.






Monday, September 24, 2007

Closeout Country

Just a few with a corner.

Lined up and to fast.


This group doing there AM team building workout?



Rode 5 fin




Sunday, September 23, 2007

Newport Pro 2007

Surfed the Newport pro with broken toe. Good scene and some good waves.


Hiddy Giddy in form in the masters division.


Hiddy Giddy 1st place in his semi heat on his way to the final.




And me Mr 4th. one place away from the finals. Rode my 5 fin bonzer. Just did not get that open face wave. Maybe next year.



Saturday, September 22, 2007

Surf stoke and broken toe

This guys name is Pasquel who works for me as a cement mason. Really good guy and family man. Yesterday I had my yearly beach party for the company and for the crews who gave there all Pasquel above just won a new surfboard in the football toss. He is now "Surf Stoked"
Horeshoe competition for Ipods.

Vollyball and soccer for fun. Except I tried my luck with in barefoot soccer and ended up with a "Broken Toe"


With the storm approaching we were a little nervous. But fun was had by all including Britney . Oh and it was at Doheny and had some fun logging to boot. Before the broken toe.



Thursday, September 20, 2007

First rain

AM after the "First rain"





Front cleared out for a nice day.



Surfed mid day just to get wet.